Here in Negros Oriental, Mt. Talinis is most sought-out for hikers and adventure seekers. I have seen pictures and heard stories of how magical and beautiful the view is from the summit.
Getting there is not an easy task, either from Dauin or from Valencia — the two main trails to the summit. Our only choice of entry that time was from barangay Bidjao in Dauin, as the entry from barangay Apolong in Valencia remains closed for hikers.
An approved permit from the Dauin local government unit is needed for Mt. Talinis hikers, and requires having an official mountain guide for every seven hikers.
Despite my fear of heights, I realized that the thought of climbing Mt. Talinis is a major task that I had to overcome. I have only hiked a few easy trails, and done some short climbs in the US before, but none as high as Mt. Talinis.
Last year, I missed the opportunity to join my fellow athletes here due to heavy rain which didn’t stop some of them from pushing through. So when another hike was planned this year, I made sure no rain would ever stop me. Well, what do you know? It rained again. But I made sure I was prepared for it this time.
I knew in my heart I could make it to the summit, no matter the environmental circumstances. All the hiking and camping essentials were also readied to make this journey happen.
My group was equally ready and excited, together with other first timers as well. So I wasn’t alone in expecting the unexpected.
At the break of dawn, we gathered at barangay Bidjao in Dauin, our starting point. After a detailed briefing from our guide, we said some prayers, asking for spiritual guidance and a safe journey, then we loaded our backpacks, and headed out to the trail.
Our group was split in small groups, with the lead guides in front, and a ‘sweeper‘ at the tail-end; both were equipped with short wave radio sets.
As soon as we entered the trail, we were greeted by a steep ascent on a single track, carefully climbing on rocks, with dirt pushing down our toes, and pulling up our bodies on every step, even with the heavy load on our backs.
It was a continuous unrelenting ascent for about a kilometer (which felt longer) until we reached a flat portion where we could take a breather.
We were told it was about six kilometers more to go to reach Lake Nailig, our camp at 1,900 meters of elevation.
Our next stop, after an hour and a half of hiking, was in Lake Yagumyum, a beautiful serene lake with a view of mountains on both sides. There, we ate our snacks, and took photos. Some took the liberty of refilling their water bottles straight from the lake. The guides informed us the cold water on Yagumgum is safe for drinking.
I had tucked in my backpack a 1.5-liter stainless steel water container, and a two-liter bladder for easy access. I wasn’t taking any chances of getting sick.
It started to drizzle a bit when we left Yagumyum. As expected, the trails became muddier and more treacherous as we cleared some slippery rocks and fallen trees, while propping ourselves up by holding on to thick roots or rocks in the vertical ascents.
I also equipped myself with two hiking poles to keep me balanced when pulling up or stepping down on the trail. Some spots are dangerously- passable, needing extra caution and prayers — especially along the ridges. (It must be harder to negotiate this tight trail when it’s already dark.)
I had to overcome my fear of the unknown down below by not thinking that I was treading along a single-track path between ridges.
As a fitness buff doing endurance sports the last 31 years, I was astounded by the toughness of the climb to Mt. Talinis. I know there is no comparison to running a marathon or competing in a triathlon but mountain climbing shares the same mindset: to push through even when the body is starting to hurt, to maintain focused on the goal, and to keep moving forward.
As we say in marathons, one must respect the distance. For this hike up to Mt. Talinis, it is just as fitting to say, one must respect the terrain.
Having a great company helps with keeping the pace and maintaining the idea of fun, as running friends provide the needed encouragement and support when the muscles start to ache uphill.
I had the pleasure of spending half of the distance with Edmar Balandaca, a seasoned endurance athlete and mountaineer who has climbed Mt. Talinis more than a dozen of times, among other mountains in the Philippines including Mt. Apo, the highest peak of all. Edmar made each challenging portion easier for me, especially with his Bluetooth speaker blaring disco music. It made me want to dance even in the slippery, muddy trails.
With all the mental preparation I thought I did, the ascent to Mt. Talinis was actually harder than I had imagined.
Finally, we reached the beautiful Lake Nailig, our base camp. Nailig’s serenity, with fog hovering just above the top of the mountain, makes one appreciate God’s creation even more.
Almost all the hikers made it to Nailig just before noon, with our colorful tents neatly pitched up.
Timmy Besario, another experienced hiker and endurance athlete, had offered to carry my tent and actually, expertly pitched it for me.
After hiking up five hours and 20 minutes, all this 59-year-old needed was to put up my feet, and relax my body. Then I prepared my lunch of boiled kamote, inun-unan na tuna (cooked in vinegar), and a boiled egg to replenish.
The group spent the rest of the day relaxing, while a couple of designated master chefs prepared our dinner. By 9 pm, after dinner and a few nightcaps, all lights out for the early morning climb to the summit.
Early the next morning, after a quick coffee to wake up our tired bodies, we started our final ascent to the summit. The terrain this time was even more challenging, a steeper vertical climb. There are spots along the trail where holding on to the roots — and trusting on the strength of the root system — is one’s only choice to safely clear the next step. The ascent is only about 400 vertical meters, and took us under 30 minutes to finally reach the summit where one could look down at Lake Nailig, and get a spectacular view of Dumaguete.
The most interesting site at the summit — and the most photographed — is the giant branch of an old tree that must have sheared from its trunk a hundred years ago, forming what appears to be entangled roots around a huge branch with its tip hanging over the cliff.
Only those who were brave enough to walk across the narrow branch had their pictures taken near the tip of the tree; but not me, no, thank you.
I already made it to the summit of Mt. Talinis, and that was more than enough for me. And as a bonus, I think I already conquered my fear of heights.
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